Many thanks guys, hope to have some more work posted soon! I got the idea from this great article from Philippe Villé written in back in September 2008 adn from Les at awesomepaintjob.com. These areas aren't in shadow like the thighs and bottom of the torso, and would be receiving the same amount of 'light' that the areas you currently have highlighted do.Beyond that, I think you're doing an amazing job with this technique and you continuously make me want to run out and buy the equipment for an airbrush and paint booth! You then lightly apply your base colours over your primer to very quickly add a ton of natural shading and highlights. I used the standard GW grass, but quite heavily painted and washed to get it looking the way I wanted. The point is to do that prime and then use paints that have been thinned with water to allow the shading underneath to show through right? Welcome back to my blog. Most people suggest that if you are just priming, base-coating or Zenithal Shading, 0.5 mm or 0.4 mm Nozzles are fine. It's less intense than Object Sourced Lighting, but gives a nice natural feel to your highlights without much sacrifice in time when you've gained an understanding of the overall intent. The Zenithal effect really works well. In my opinion this is a good base to start from to get a general highlight onto the miniature before you start working on details. Washes are a thinned version of paint designed to flow into the recesses of a surface. The wax stamp for the oath papers also gets a coat of blood red. Subject: Is it possible to zenithal highlight without an airbrush? Hi everybody. From priming to edge highlight it took me 30 minutes i guess. i'll post a pic of my nurgle chaos lord. 1st highlight - Dark Sea Blue/Ice Blue (2 to 1 ratio) applied to tops/edges of backpack, helmet, shoulders, upper arms. Search for "zenithal hobby cheating" or "painting with glazes hobby cheating". 3) Airbrush a shade with vallejo yellow green (no. The center was done with a spray can, the far right is with an airbrush. Below is an index of various examples of painting techniques and effects as featured throughout my various painting series with links to the specific videos (or sections of videos) for your convenience. - posted in + GENERAL PCA QUESTIONS +: Hi brothers, Im planning to treat me an airbrush for Chistmas and I will begin with priming and zenithal priming. Well my friends, Zenithal Priming is your answer for fast, easy, great highlights and shadows. I like the look of it, but I don't know if this is a technique that I need more skills and knowledge to use well. Spray tan primer in a 45-degree angle around the figure. It creates areas of strong highlight and areas of shade on a model that can bring it to life in a way that regular line highlighting cannot do. i'll post a pic of my nurgle chaos lord. Saved by Mattmann. This post continues a saga I began in an earlier post on the hobby of painting miniature figures. P3 Ordic Olive applied to grassy areas, kind of a rough dry brush application. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. You won't look back. What is zenithal priming in miniature painting? Also note that zenithal highlighting/shading doesn't necessarily mean that you work with black to white tones, it simply means you use whatever colors to mimic being hit from a source (e.g. Even if you don't have multiple spray primers: you can prime gray, dry-brush white with downward strokes, then wash black in the crevices and underneath with upward strokes. Quick Zenithal Highlights using an Airbrush. I, like many others, started airbrushing to save money on model primers and to quickly apply the base coats, at most some basic Zenithal Highlighting. An airbrush is great for a lot of different things. It’s a simple approach that lays a nice foundation for you add color. I've been learning to use my airbrush, but I have a loooong way to go ;). Usually, washes are a darker color that helps you add contrast to a miniature. Highlight … Its worth it to do early if u want to improve, a good way to use it is say on a cloak, u pick your two colors, a shadow and highlight tone. Being new to airbrushing, I did struggle at times with blockages, getting the right consistency of paint and remembering that I was supposed to be using the zenithal technique. This only goes to the parts that are receiving the most light, i.e. Usually, washes are a darker color that helps you add contrast to a miniature. One such technique I've recently began to use with a variety of models I've worked on has been zenithal highlights. Zenithal priming uses a gradient of grays to mimic the sun at mid day. Finally, let’s look at the difference between using a spray can and an airbrush (image below). When starting off you need to pick your lighting direction. Washes. Insignia - Painted with Space Wolves Grey and then highlighted with a Ivory SW Grey mix. You can get a small spray booth with an exhaust fan that will pull any fumes and stray spray right out your window. Painting 201: Zenithal Priming, or how to shade & highlight like a BOSS. I recommend checking Hobby Cheating video series on YouTube, Vince Venturella (who is the host) have a lot of tutorials dedicated to this topic. Press down on the trigger to get the air flowing, and pull back on the trigger to increase the flow of paint. It's also a showcase of the stuff you're really proud of. 4) And then paint on the shade in vallejo US olive drab (no.1) I'll then do some selective shading/glazes with nuln oil and brown ink. If you don't have an airbrush you can still achieve a similar zenithal effect, albeit less smooth, with spray can primer's. PS - you should ALWAYS thin your paints with water, zenithal or no zenithal (well, almost always ;) ). i used the technique for painting the armour. Whoo, man, that is some awesome zenithal effect there. Can I do it without an airbrush? The first thing to know is that this technique requires a spray primer. My preference is to use an airbrush because I can control the amount of … Zenithal priming : which paints ? the sun) from above to create highlights and shadows -- using an airbrush, this means hitting the model at different angles to achieve these effects. I was planning to prime rebel troopers in black and hit them in a khaki for the zenithal, but I usually see it done in white. Or just prime it all white and go from there? Everywhere with black is the shadow tone, then all the white is your highlight tone, u then mix some of the two colors together and paint the grey areas with that and try to blend the three tones together, New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast, More posts from the minipainting community. Something this brush gives you the confidence to do. Get an airbrush! It just requires a few minutes more time when priming -- do you have an airbrush? From here, I darkened some of the shadows with a combination of Black Templar Contrast paint and Black oils. Well done, sir :). Zenithal the full squad. If I am still painting and enjoying it in a year then I will probably invest in one. If you’re airbrushing your model, inks are a quick and easy way to glaze over a zenithal highlight base coat. I’ll go over my efforts to paint Volfyirion in another mini-painting post. Note - The first zenithal highlight was applied per the whole model except the underneath. On the far right, I tried to avoid getting any shade on the base. The next step up from this is direct spot-highlighting. It makes it appear as though the model is being lit from a light source directly overhead of the model. You apply black, grey, and white primers in a way that creates a gradient effect adding depth and shading to your base coat. Look at the photo above, on the left, you can see the highlight along the edge and where I made a mistake. When painting Slambo, I wanted to experiment with lighting and shadows. Can't wait to see what's next! Final Zenithal coat using Vallejo Model Air Aluminium (Mithril is the closest 'normal' paint I can think of, but honestly, the pigment count and smoothness of the airbrush paint is really on a different level). The center was done with a spray can, the far right is with an airbrush. Re: Airbrushed Highlights vs. Very fine lines of Devlan Mud were painted on to simulate the writing. You won't be able to go back with your basecoat and clean up any mistakes you make while highlighting without seeing your attempts to fix your mistakes. Spray can or an airbrush allows you to lay down the basic highlight and shadow areas in a fairly short amount of time. Zenithal priming miniatures, also called pre-shading, is a method of adding shadow and highlight to a model before painting it. Thanks GDMNW, much appreciated. Great stuff man! Zenithal highlighting is another approach to highlighting a model that gives it a completely different look and feel. Re: Airbrushed Highlights vs. Zenithal highlights break down to omni-directional light sourcing. I love that glow of blue on them. If you want to do detailed airbrush work like recess shading or spot highlights. the sun) from above to create highlights and shadows -- using an airbrush, this means hitting the model at different angles to achieve these effects. The use of a spray primer or airbrush to add bright color over a darkly painted surface reveals details and immediately helps you see where you should be paint bright colors or shadows. The papers themselves are based with Graveyard Earth and then highlighted with Dheneb Stone. Painting 201: Zenithal Priming or how to shade & highlight like a boss by Powerfisted.com. In that post, I described how I managed to paint the minis in the game Mystheato a satisfactory level. Since I wrote that post, a new element entered the picture: I pre-ordered two more games with miniature figures: Tainted … An unpainted Dwarf Brewer, straight out of the package. This article will be one in a series of tutorials about zenithal highlighting. the top and front of the helmet, top of the backpack etc. On the … Excellent model, and they were a breeze to paint… after several tries of finding an effective method for painting the light purple/grey ectoplasm. I can’t think of an easier way to get a good looking army tabletop ready than the 100% POWERFISTED approved Zenthial Priming method. YouTube, Twitter, Facebook, Instagram, Spotify, iTunes, Patreon Hello! The other is that using sprays mimics how light works - when you spray the white from the top (or top left or whatever angle you choose for your light source), the sprayed paint travels in a straight line the same way light does. One thing zenithal highlighting doesn't do is make me a better painter, I'm still going to have to put a lot of work in to achieve that goal. I use the airbrush to prime my minis . I don't have an airbrush and don't plan on getting one since I am just starting. Step 1: Prime. My only real criticism is that there should be some of the lighting from the top of the helmet and shoulders, on the toes of the boots, tops of kneepads, and on the bottom-backs of the greaves. Ive been watching Sorastro on youtube painting Blood Rage mini's and he starts every miniature with a zenithal highlight prime. The process is simple and pretty straight forward. I hope by the time I've cranked out a few squads I'll be on my way to getting confident with the technique. This index was requested by a viewer because given the number of videos now on… This would be easier if I invested in an airbrush. Zenithal highlighting experiment - Ultramarines, P... Zenithal highlighting experiment - Ultramarines, Prime - Vallejo Panzer Grey surface primer (applied with airbrush), 1st zenithal highlight - Vallejo Dark Sea Blue, 2nd zenithal highlight - Citadel Enchanted Blue, 3rd zenithal highlight - Citadel Hawk Turquoise, 4th zenithal highlight - Citadel Ice Blue, 5th zenithal highlight - Citadel Space wolves grey, Thin glaze of Dark Sea Blue applied to the entire model, Shadow wash of Badab Black/Dark Sea Blue (5 to 1 ratio) applied to recesses, Shadow wash of Badab Black to metallic areas. Prime in GW 's black then once dry, then hit it again with your chosen lighter spray. A place to share ideas and techniques for painting and converting miniatures. Ive already seen several tutorials but one topic stays unclear. Once dried, a lighter color like gray or white is added from the top, or zenith. Edge Highlights Ah yes, i did mean edging after the blend. The flesh was a simple 3 step process (airbrush 1 & 2, brush wash 3): Basecoat – VMA US Dark Green 71016 Zenithal Highlight – 7:5:2 VGA Dead Flesh 72.735, VGA Moon Yellow 72.705, Distilled Water What I often do is I start a model with a zenithal highlight and I finish the rest up with brushes. You can get a small spray booth with an exhaust fan that will pull any fumes and stray spray right out your window. On the far right, I tried to avoid getting any shade on the base. Subject: Is it possible to zenithal highlight without an airbrush? Followed by zenithal highlight with vallejo german dark yellow (no. I actually got mine free with the air compressor I bought. you'll see this in a lot of eavy metal paint jobs. At the end of that post, I looked forward to painting the dragon Volfyirion and the miniatures in Icaion, both from Tabula Games. you are looking at a 0.2 mm or 0.15 mm Nozzle. Both used brushed on shades at the end. Washes. Please observe proper reddiquette, have fun and keep your brushes damp. 2nd highlight - as above with 1 part Vallejo ivory added. For the Iron Snake, I started by airbrushing the model with Gunmetal Grey (77.720) over a black basecoat. - posted in + GENERAL PCA QUESTIONS +: Is it possible, realistically, to do proper zenithal priming without an airbrush, say, with a normal set of brushes like youd use for anything? To do this I sprayed the model black (Vallejo Black; 71.057) and then did a zenithal highlight with an airbrush using a white acrylic ink (White Acrylic Ink; Daler Rowney). Prime the model white. Glaze red the full squad. Todosi. Edge highlight … Episode 02- Zenithal HL with and without Airbrush - YouTube Zenithal highlighting on models can be a huge and somewhat complex topic and it's with some reservation that I'm posting this whole "tutorial." They look 'finished' in a way I find really hard to achieve.Your basing is awesome too. This is not a complicated technique. Finally, let’s look at the difference between using a spray can and an airbrush (image below). you'll see this in a lot of eavy metal paint jobs. You can use it one of several ways: 1) use glazes over the zenithal highlighting to tint the colors, allowing the shading you already did in the priming step to control the brightness of the tone; or 2) use the zenithal highlighting as a roadmap for how you're going to paint the model -- maybe take a picture of the model after the zenithal priming and reference the picture when you're trying to figure out what parts of the model get highlighted up the most. Building and painting miniature models for wargames. I use zenithal priming as a guide on to where to put highlights/shadow. You can use zenithal preshading to also paint with glazes/washes to make a quick shading on a mini, but I have little experience with this method. It just requires a few minutes more time when priming -- do you have an airbrush? Many thanks Tim, I think that's a fair critique. Details - Blood red for eye lenses + a dot of ivory to achieve the 'glint' effect. Since I planned to paint Volfyirion as a fire dragon, I explored a different zenithal scheme. This Master airbrush is a dual-action airbrush, meaning the trigger has two functions. i used the technique for painting the armour. After the first black priming, which kind of paint should I use for grey and white zenithal highlights ? This is not a complicated technique. Press J to jump to the feed. With the accuracy allowed by this brush, you can paint very fine details. You apply black, grey, and white primers in a way that creates a gradient effect adding depth and shading to your base coat. Best of all everybody can do it. Y It took a lot more time writing this than painting it ^^ You can even increase the speed by doing batch of models. You can do Zenithal priming with normal spray cans. You then lightly apply your base colours over your primer to very quickly add a ton of natural shading and highlights. For zenithal highlights, does it have to be white? It's good for a tabletop standard minis though. ex : Prime the full squad. Edge Highlights Ah yes, i did mean edging after the blend. Using an airbrush, apply an overall coat of brown primer. Here they are, Lady Harrow’s Sorrowflight aka the Easy to build Myrmourn Banshees from the Nighthaunts range. Each successive highlight concentrates more towards the front and top of the model until finally your applying the final highlight just to the top of the head and shoulders. dark Sea Blue was used to tidy up the edges, Gravel and static grass glued in small clumps to the base using PVA glue, then left to dry overnight, Entire base painted in Graveyard Earth followed by a thinned Devlan Mud wash (use old brushes), Grass areas painted Catachan Green and any flat areas get another splat of Graveyard Earth, rough highlight of Dheneb Stone to gravel areas. Without too much modification, you can apply a similar technique to things like fur, patterns on horses, large areas of skin, gradients on armor plates, or anything else your mind can come up with. Lone Wolf Sentinel Pilot Los Angeles, CA, USA Humidity isn't as rough on airbrushes as some spray cans. Washes are a thinned version of paint designed to flow into the recesses of a surface. The idea of laying down an airbrush effect, then coming in and working around (or over) it is the basis of a lot of airbrush work. Same as before, but very, very confined to spraying from above without much latitude for angle shift. The paintwork is great. Each successive highlight concentrates more towards the front and top of the model until finally your applying the final highlight just to the top of the head and shoulders. Basically just use the airbrush as the light source. Also note that zenithal highlighting/shading doesn't necessarily mean that you work with black to white tones, it simply means you use whatever colors to mimic being hit from a source (e.g. Base coats are just the beginning of a long laundry list of different uses that you can put this fantastic tool to effective use. I like the idea of using the zenithal as a way to easily get highlights in my model so I think I will try and do it using the first approach. Should I try this? zenithal priming without an airbrush? Both used brushed on shades at the end. If you’re airbrushing your model, inks are a quick and easy way to glaze over a zenithal highlight base coat. Miniature Painting Painting Tutorial Mini Paintings Warhammer 40k Miniatures Model Paint Warhammer Paint Wargaming Figure Painting Funny School Pictures. Zenithal Priming is a method of priming where you use three colors instead of just one. These are amazing. Zenithal highlights reproduce the highlights you might expect from a light source directly over a model. The basic method starts with priming the model black. No Memes. Generally you will use just three colors, black, gray, and white. You can use an aerosol primer but I get more consistent results from an airbrush. I dont own an airbrush, and Im minimum-wage, part-time, fast-food expensive-hobby levels of broke, so I cant afford to get one. Random question about priming. Mark nude minis as NSFW. It helps you plan how to paint your mini. Selecting either option could be considered the best for airbrushing minis. Lone Wolf Sentinel Pilot Los Angeles, CA, USA Humidity isn't as rough on airbrushes as some spray cans. What are you using as static grass? I zenithal prime, make a photo from every angle and consult it whenever I have doubts about highlight placement. It give me more control and better results. Zephaniah Adriyen likes this. 5) Then paint on the edge highlight vallejo german yellow (no. This very quickly established strong shadows that I could work with. Todosi. Next I did a subtle zenithal highlight of Duraluminium (77.702) with the airbrush. Zenithal Priming is a method of priming where you use three colors instead of just one. Black line the full squad. It could be said that this is a much more realistic approach to highlighting a model. Basically anywhere you think light 'would' be hitting the model if it were shining down. 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